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INTERVIEW: NOT FRIENDS
The Fourth Wall
der über 50 der besten Surf-Destinationen weltweit vorstellt
Wir sind sehr stolz darauf
KOOK - What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller Thruster Fins INTERVIEW: NOT FRIENDSWith grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discoveryof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the oceans beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big hollow wavethat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderin a single year,
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